25.8.14

伊斯坦堡 (1) - 藍色清真寺 / Istanbul (1) - The Blue Mosque

不是叫藍色清真寺的藍色清真寺


色清真寺在我心中是伊斯坦堡最有名的名勝之一,因為那是我少數知道名字的地標。事真上藍色清真寺並不是它的真正的名稱,它正確的名字是「蘇丹艾哈邁德清真寺」。據說「藍色清真寺」的來源是西方人因為寺內的藍色的磚瓦而這樣稱呼它。

特別值得一提的是它的六座宣禮塔,只有聖城麥加和土耳其阿達納的清真寺同樣有六座宣禮塔。在興建時蘇丹因此被批評為傲慢,所以蘇丹出資建造麥加第七座宣禮塔來平息這件事。

這六座宣禮塔據說是由蘇丹和建築師的溝通誤會而來,蘇丹告訴建築師「用金去建宣禮塔」(altın minare),而建築師聽到「建六座宣禮塔」(altı minare)。當然這事的真假己無從孝究,只能把它當故事聽一聽就算了。

藍色清真寺算是我第一間拜訪的清真寺,除了知道入清真寺要脫鞋和男女分開禱告外,對它並無多少認識。

到達藍色清真寺,拍了差不多是指定動作的照片,擺脫了在寺外兜售的小販後,入到庭院之內,才發現雖然庭院內有很多遊人,但它竟然能給我一種安寧的感覺,真是意想不到。

進入到前庭,就被那層層疊疊的穹頂震憾了一下,進而俘虜了我的目光。然後發現前庭的面績其真是很大的,而前庭的面績和禱告大堂是大約相同,可想言之在禱告時那滿是信徒的場面


因為我在禱告時段到達,被拒諸於禱告大堂門外,所以有時間在前庭逛和拍照,拍得不亦樂乎



 清真寺 vs. 教堂


終於可以進入到禱告大堂,脫鞋,進寺,第一感覺… 好臭!一股氣味迎面而來,分不清是腳臭、鞋、體味還是地氊

當適應過氣味後,發現內裹其實是很靚很有特色的。看到穹頂的藍色磚瓦裝飾,藍色清真寺這個名字真是當之無愧。


雖然我不是教徒,但我在歐洲旅行的時候到訪過不少教堂,在我欣賞這清真寺時察覺到三處和教堂有分別的地方。

第一,在清真寺裹是沒有雕像和圖畫的。據說這是因為穆其林是禁止拜圖像的。所以阿拉伯的藝術品大部份都是阿拉會文雕刻或磚瓦圖案。

第二,在這裹我看不到坐椅,所以感覺上地方顯得很大和空曠,並沒有一些教堂的擠迫感。禱告時所有人都是跪在地上禱告的。

第三,因為大量的七彩玻璃和照明,感覺上比很多教堂光猛明亮。


六座宣禮塔/The 6 minarets

再來一張夜晚的/Blue Mosque at night

指定動作/The I was here photo

庭院/The outer courtyard

入口的阿拉伯文/Entrance with Arabic script

前庭/The courtyard

被拒於門外/You shall not pass!

前庭的廊道/The corridor in the courtyard

藍色清真寺的模型/A model of the Blue Mosque

舊的淨身泉/The old ablution fountain

現時的淨身泉/The current ablution fountains

樹上「長」出來的宣禮塔/A minarets “sprouted” from a tree

美麗的藍色穹頂/The impressive blue dome

再來一張藍色穹頂/Another photo of the dome

循例的遊客相/The tourist snap

阿拉伯文字和磁瓦圖案/Arabic script and patterned tiles

開闊的空間/So open and spacious

明亮的空間/Very well-lit, full of light

The Blue Mosque is not named Blue Mosque


The Blue Mosque is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks in my mind, it’s because it’s one of the few I know its name.  In fact, Blue Mosque is not its real name; its proper name is “Sultan Ahmet Camii”.  It’s believed the name “Blue Mosque” comes from how Westerners call it because of its blue tiles inside the prayer hall.

The most special feature of this mosque is its 6 minarets.  The only other ones are the Ka'aba in Mecca and Sabancı Mosque in Adana.  Apparently the Sultan was criticized for thinking a bit too highly of himself.  Anyway, the Sultan overcame the problem by paying for a 7th minaret to be built in Mecca.

Urban legend says the 6 minarets were the result of a misunderstanding between the Sultan and the architect.  Apparently the Sultan told the architect “to build the minarets in gold” (altın minare), but the architect heard “to build 6 minarets” (altı minare).  There’s no way to verify this tale, it is after all, an interesting story, that’s it.

It’s my first real visit to a mosque, apart from you have to take the shoe off before going in, and men and women pray separately, I knew nothing about mosques.

Taking a snap with the landmark is a must.  Once I got away from the vendors, I went into the outer courtyard; it’s surprisingly quiet despite the number of tourist there, gave me a sense of peace and tranquility.

As soon as stepping into the inner courtyard, I was stunned by the complex exterior dome, which captured my gaze.  I then realised the inner courtyard is as big as the prayer hall itself, just imagine the number of people praying all together during prayer time… 

I arrived at the praying time; therefore I couldn’t go into the prayer hall.  So I had time to look around the courtyards and taking photos, which I had a lot of fun…

Mosque vs. Church


Finally I was allowed to go into the prayer hall, after taking my shoes off and getting in, my first thought… it stank!  I was greeted by a strong odour; I had no idea whether it was the feet, shoes, body odour or the carpet…

Once I got used to the smell, I noticed the blue tiled ceiling on the dome, Blue Mosque is a well-deserved name.

I’m a non-believer, but I visited many cathedrals and churches when I traveled in Europe.  Standing here inside in a mosque, I noted three differences between the two.

One - there’s no statues or painting in a mosque.  Apparently it’s because Muslim prohibits the worship of any figure.  Therefore, most Arabic arts are either Arabic script or beautifully patterned tiles.

Two - there’s no seating in the mosque.  Therefore it seemed very open and spacious, unlike some cathedrals and churches.  Everyone kneels on the floor when praying.

Three - because of the large number of rose windows and numerous lightings, it seemed brighter and better lit than many cathedrals and churches.



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